Opinions Products

Cherry diseases and cherry spraying - fungicides

Cherry fungal diseases are one of the most common diseases affecting these stone trees. Unfortunately, if left unchecked, they can be very dangerous. They quickly move from one specimen to another. Very often, the increased occurrence of cherry fungal diseases is affected by the weather, which we have no influence on. The higher the humidity throughout the growing season, the better the conditions for the propagation of fungal spores. Cherry fungal diseases can quickly attack the entire plantation and lead to complete destruction of trees. To avoid this, it is worth using prophylactic spraying against cherry fungal diseases. Prevention is definitely better than cure.

red cherries

General principles of cherry spraying

Treatment by spraying is extremely important in the care of orchard trees. Diseases, especially fungal ones, when they give visible symptoms, can no longer be eradicated. However, you can not give up and then it is worth using spraying called intervention. That is why many experienced fruit growers use spraying as one of their tree care treatments.

Cherry spraying depends on the stage of development of the tree. We determine the exact date of cherry spraying based on the state of development of our plants and weather conditions. The ideal time to spray is in the morning or evening. Too high a temperature causes volatilization of active substances from the spray. Rain during spraying or immediately after it will rinse the preparation from the plant and thus our spraying will be completely unimportant. That is why it is so important to observe the weather forecast before spraying in order for the treatment to be effective.

Cherry spraying procedures should be performed with disinfected, washed equipment. Persons performing them should wear protective gloves, coveralls and safety glasses. It is very important to follow all precautionary measures.

Cherry spraying - which sprayer to choose?

Having cherry trees, sooner or later we will face the decision of spraying. It is worth getting the right equipment that will allow us to perform this procedure efficiently. There are many sprayers from reputable companies on the market. The simplest ones include manual ones, which are relatively small and quite handy. However, they will work better for smaller plants, because their capacity is not so large. It can also be used for simple sprinkling of garden plants or even those that we have at home. For spraying cherries, it is better to choose sprayers with a lance and a container for spraying a dozen or so liters on wheels or with handles for arms. We set the stream with which we will spray and we have the entire substance in a container that we put by the tree or there are models that allow the container to be put on the back like a normal backpack. The comfort of such spraying is huge, the spine is protected and we can freely maneuver the lance, which has a large spraying range.

The effectiveness of cherry spraying will ensure that the plants are thoroughly covered by the preparation. Let's try to spray the cherries slowly and carefully. Remember to get the preparation into every place of the plant, into the nooks and crannies of shoots or bark. It is important not only to spray the cherries we focus on in this text, but also the plants adjacent to them. The spores can survive on other trees adjacent to our plantation. In addition, one-time spraying will not help, it should be done regularly, e.g. 3-4 times at intervals of several days, as described in the instructions.

The most common cherry fungal diseases are:

slight leaf spotting of stone fruit trees

perforation of the leaves of stone fruit trees

bitter rot of cherry

brown rot of stone trees

Depending on what cherry diseases threaten us, the better you need to prepare for the season. The first treatments against fungal diseases take place during the bud swelling period, usually in February and March. Then it is recommended to lubricate the places after cutting with horticultural ointments, which protect against getting spores of the fungus into the wounds after cutting. This helps in the fight against, among others, one of the cherry diseases, e.g. bitter cherry rot. Another important period is the time before flowering, then either organic or chemical spraying is recommended against brown rot of stone fruit trees and leaf holes in stone trees.

Organic cherry spraying

The ecological ones include spraying with yarrow extract (1:10), field horsetail (1:4), horseradish infusion (without dilution with water).

Cherry spraying

Chemical sprays include: Topsin M 500 S.C. it is a concentrate in concentrated form, which we dilute with water. The amount of preparation that needs to be used is visible on the instructions attached to the package, in the case of cherries, it is usually 15 ml per 5-9 l of water.

Another important time during the entire growing season is flowering. Then the plant needs the most comfortable conditions for growth. The flowering period is very energy-intensive, so if the flowers are damaged by fungal diseases, our yield will be definitely worse or will not be there at all. And when it comes to picking cherries, it is the fruit that we care about the most. During flowering, spraying is recommended against small spotting of the leaves of stone fruit trees. Less invasive treatments include the use of yarrow extract, field horsetail or horseradish slurry.

Let us remember that ecological methods when we see clear symptoms of the disease may not be enough. Other spraying is the use of Syllit 65 WP is a powder agent that is diluted with water. The dose is about 12g per 15 liters of water. After flowering, a very effective spray is the use of Carpene 65 WP, however, it is recommended for a large cultivation of cherries to protect against small blotch of stone fruit trees. The treatment is performed up to 1 month after flowering. The dose is about 15 g per 7 liters of water. Captan 80 WP is a preparation to combat bitter rot of stone fruit plants, its use also begins after flowering. The recommended dose is 15g per 5 liters of water.

The period when fruit buds appear and the time when they are already visible is the period when we least deal with chemical spraying. The grace period of some preparations is even up to a month before harvest, so it is very important to keep them. Chemical sprays are effective, but we must use them in such a way that they are also safe. It is possible to use Topsin M 500SC for fungal diseases, e.g. for perforation of stone fruit leaves during fruit growth, while maintaining the grace period!

Regardless of whether the harvest was satisfactory or not, it is worth starting to think about the new year in August. After harvesting, you can spray the cherries with 5% urea. When we cover the fallen leaves with it, we can reduce the infection of small spotted leaves of stone fruit trees in the next season.

The spraying recommendations given above are examples, when arranging a protection plan for our plantation, we must take into account many factors, including the size of our plantation, growing conditions, weather or the neighborhood in which our trees are located. This will allow us to know our habitat and determine what we should watch out for. What is the risk of certain fungal diseases on our cherries.

Rake for leaves and grass - types and application

During all care treatments in the garden, functional garden tools are necessary, thanks to which the work goes faster and is more effective. One of the tools without which it is difficult to imagine any work in the garden or on the plot is a rake. The choice is considerable, so today we will describe the types of rakes and their use. Which leaf and grass rake to choose to best fulfill its function?

Early spring is the perfect time to start cleaning your garden. Although there is a lot of work, with proper planning of all activities, we can easily prepare both the vegetation and the lawn.

Garden rake

Garden rakes - what are they for

The first step should be to check the condition of our gardening tools so that nothing surprises us during the work and that everything goes according to plan. It is worth knowing that a lot of effort separates us from the effect that we will admire in the season, so if you can speed up and improve the operation, then you should take advantage of this opportunity.

Without a doubt, the most important tool of any gardener is a rake. They find a number of applications.

Rakes are primarily used for:

raking leaves,

ground levelling,

even distribution of soil and fertilizers on flower beds and beds,

adjusting the layer of bedding,

all kinds of cleaning work in the garden, on the plot and in the field.

Although rake for leaves and grass are simple tools, consisting of a shaft and a fan of teeth that resemble a comb, choosing the right model can significantly speed up or slow down work in the garden. The selection of the right rakes also contributes to saving time and the level of our fatigue after work. As you can see, it is worth choosing well so that the care of the garden runs smoothly and comfortably.

Gardening rake - what types do we distinguish

There are different types of rakes at the garden store. Starting from the universal model, through special field rake and rake for leaves and grass. In each of these categories, versions with a metal or plastic comb are available, in various widths and number of teeth. The same is true of stems. Here a lot depends on individual preferences, but wooden handles are most often chosen.

What are the different types of rakes?

Universal rake

The basic model of the rake, whose working part is usually made of metal and is distinguished by a large number of teeth. The wooden handle allows a comfortable and comfortable grip. They are most often used for typical garden work, such as raking leaves or leveling and loosening the ground. Chosen by owners of small plots or home gardens who are looking for functional and simple solutions.

It is worth noting that universal rakes are not as accurate as specialist models, but for occasional, amateur use they will be perfectly fine.

Leaf rake

Raking leaves is an important activity in the garden, on which the appearance of the lawn and the health of plants depend, among other things. Rotting leaves can stunt the growth of grass or ornamental flowers, and create an excellent environment for fungal diseases. Regular raking of leaves ensures better air circulation and prevents unsightly gaps in the lawn.

The leaf rake is distinguished by a wide head, which in leaf models is approx. 40 cm, and long and flexible teeth. A leaf rake is often called a fan rake because of its wide comb. Flexible tines provide the most effective raking and adapt to the ground, so they will be ideal for uneven and difficult surfaces. At the same time, they will not cause damage to the grass while mowing the lawn, and the work itself will be efficient and fast, mainly due to the large range of teeth and the width of the head.

The cheapest are leaf rake made of plastic or plastic, we will pay the most for the metal option. The metal leaf rake is a solid tool that will withstand frequent use, and is also resistant to moisture and various types of mechanical damage.

Grass rake

Grass rake is characterized by long, stiff and thin teeth. This feature is crucial because the rakes must be able to remove even small debris from the lawn, and at the same time they cannot damage the turf. What's more, during raking, we can additionally loosen the ground. Making the soil more flexible and loosen will cause better penetration of moisture, air and nutrients into their structure, which will translate into both its growth and coloration.

Grass rake is usually sold with a metal comb. In this case, both the number of teeth and other amenities, such as a mechanism that regulates the width of the working part of the rake and the spacing between the teeth, have the greatest impact on the price. The most expensive will be the versions with 60 teeth, which are made of corrosion-resistant galvanized steel.

Before buying, it is worth considering the size of the lawn. It may turn out that by saving on a rake, we will ultimately lose much more time and energy during subsequent care work.

Field rake

A distinctive and distinctive type of rake. The field rake is much larger than the other models, has sparsely arranged teeth, a wide head and is entirely made of wood. They are designed for drying, storing and raking hay and dry grass on large surfaces. Perfect for raking meadows and vast fields.

Regardless of the type of rake we choose - leaf and grass rake, field or universal rake, it is also worth paying attention to the type of handle before buying. The best option is to buy the head and shaft from one manufacturer, thanks to which we have a guarantee of a perfect fit. No less important is the type of raw material and possible length adjustment. The telescopic handle will allow you to adjust the length to the user's height, which will reduce bothersome back pain, especially during long hours of work.

boxwood moth. What is a boxwood moth and how do I get rid of it?

The boxwood moth (Cydalima perspectalis) is an insect that has appeared in Poland relatively recently, but for several years of its presence it has been quite a nuisance to the owners of gardens. Although it is one of the many pests that feed on garden plants, it is worth noting that the boxwood moth is an extremely voracious and fast-spreading species, and it takes only a few days to almost completely destroy the bush. How to recognize the boxwood moth and how to fight it? What sprays should be used to get rid of the pest?

Boxwood moth

What is a boxwood moth and what sprays should be used?

The boxwood moth belongs to the group of butterflies and is one of the largest moths in Europe. It comes from Asia, and probably appeared in Poland together with imported goods. Interestingly, the adult specimen is harmless, and the greatest havoc among boxwood bushes is caused by moth larvae that feed on the young shoots of the plant. The sludge formed as a result of their presence causes significant damage to the plant and, consequently, to its complete death.

What does a boxwood moth look like?

A distinctive distinguishing feature of an adult insect is its size. As we have already mentioned, the boxwood moth is one of the largest moths, and its wingspan can reach up to 4 cm. The most common color of the wings is a white center with a brown border, but specimens with completely brown wings can also be noted among the population. These differences are caused by genetic variability and high adaptability of the insect.

The head of the boxwood moth is grey-brown in color, with characteristic yellow or beige antennae, and is covered with brown hairs. The body of the insect, depending on its fragment, takes on different shades - from whitish near the head to dark brown in the back.

The climate prevailing in Poland is very favorable for the boxwood moth, which is why up to 3 full development cycles of the insect can be recorded during the year, and the length of one of them, in very favorable conditions and temperatures around 25ºC, usually lasts about 20 days. The first development cycle usually takes place at the beginning of April, the second at the beginning of July, and the third at the turn of September and October.

Symptoms of the boxwood moth

Boxwood is a plant characterized by dense and durable foliage, which is why it is willingly used as a base for hedges. Not only gardeners appreciated this advantage, because the lush growth and rapid spreading of the plant are ideal conditions for all kinds of pests, including the boxwood moth.

The insect lays eggs on the underside of the leaves, and their diameter is max. 1 mm, therefore a cursory check of the condition of the plant may be insufficient to notice their presence. The next stage of development, i.e. the hatching of tiny insect larvae, is another moment that is easy to overlook. Unfortunately, it is the larvae, especially at a later stage of development, that are the most dangerous for the plant and quickly devastate subsequent parts of the plant.

So how do you prevent boxwood moth infestation? First of all, you need to watch the plant very carefully. Particular attention should be paid to the underside and meticulously unwrap the leaf blades. Another, quite typical symptom of the appearance of the pest is the gradual browning and drying of the leaves. The last stage is defoliation, as a result of which the plant is completely destroyed, and only the characteristic, sticky yarn with larval excrements remains on the bare shoots.

How to get rid of boxwood moth?

The ease of reproduction of the pest, favorable climatic conditions and the lack of natural enemies are the main reasons for the nuisance of the boxwood moth. It is an insect that is difficult to eliminate from the garden and easily moves between successive specimens, and even between neighboring gardens.

Experienced gardeners recommend, above all, preventive measures and systematic checking of the plant, especially in the above-mentioned sensitive seasons, which are conducive to the reproduction of the pest. But what to do when boxwood has already been attacked? Is it possible to get rid of the boxwood moth?

Much depends on both the stage of development and the number of pests. One of the recommended forms of fighting the moth is mechanical action consisting in manually collecting the larvae from the leaves. This method will work only in not very intense invasions. Just like specialized pheromone traps. Plants placed close by attract male insects, which become trapped inside the trap. Reducing the size of the male part of the pest population results in limiting the reproductive possibilities and, consequently, in getting rid of the moth from the garden.

Fighting the boxwood moth with chemical preparations

If the number of insects exceeds the capabilities of the pheromone trap, and thus - there is also no way to get rid of the problem manually, you should use professional chemicals that contain specific active substances that have a biocidal effect.

One of the most frequently used sprays against the boxwood moth is Mospilan 20 SP Target, the composition of which contains chemical substances with a systemic effect. The green parts of the plant absorb the preparation, which then spreads along with the juices inside the plant and enters the organism of the feeding pest.

Another recommended spray for the boxwood moth is the Polysect Boxwood Substral long-acting insecticide, the effects of which are visible within 24 hours of application. Like Mospilan, this spray also has a surface and systemic effect, and insects feeding on the plant die, even if they have not had direct contact with the spray.

A good method of combating the boxwood moth, also often used in organic plant cultivation, is the Lepinox Plus Target Natura preparation, containing the naturally occurring bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis, which produces crystal proteins activated in the digestive system of the larvae. Infected caterpillars stop feeding immediately after ingesting the bacteria and die within 72 hours.

It is worth remembering that spraying the boxwood moth should be carried out immediately after noticing the larvae of the pest. Generally - the sooner we take appropriate steps, the greater the chance of removing insects from the garden. Since the moths reproduce successively, and each successive development cycle is conducive to the recurrence of the intruder, it is necessary to repeat the treatment every few weeks and systematically observe the plants.

Nematodes - their types and methods of combating them. Effective spraying against nematodes

Nematodes are one of the most dangerous pests, the presence of which causes numerous losses among vegetation. They attack not only ornamental plants, but also vegetables, shrubs and fruit trees as well as grass. Which nematodes are the most harmful? Learn the types, symptoms of feeding and effective spraying on soil nematodes.

Soil nematodes - characteristics

Nematodes are invertebrate organisms with an elongated, translucent body, and their size does not exceed 0.3 mm in length. This is the main cause of problems with early diagnosis of the presence of the pest. Small size, however, is not an obstacle to very destructive feeding - nematodes cause huge losses among garden, orchard and field vegetation.

In most cases, nematodes are found in the substrate, feeding on plant roots. Only a small proportion of plant pest nematodes feed on their above-ground parts. This group includes, among others, the chrysanthemum nematode and the virulent washer.

Nematodes that feed on plants limit their growth, cause numerous damage to the roots, and facilitate the penetration of soil pathogens into the interior of plants. In addition, soil nematodes contribute to the spread of viral diseases that are dangerous to plants.

Symptoms of soil nematodes

To begin with, it is worth emphasizing that nematodes are a huge group of roundworms found not only in water reservoirs, but also in soils, in plant tissues and in animal organisms. Not all of them are harmful to our crops and the mere appearance of nematodes is not a major cause for concern.

The problem begins when the size of the population exceeds the acceptable standards, thus creating a lot of havoc among the vegetation.

Unfortunately, capturing this stage is not an easy task. The reasons should be sought not only in the microscopic size of nematodes, but also in the symptoms of their presence. They are very often confused with fungal and viral diseases and with the effects of feeding on other pest species, e.g. grubs, i.e. beetle larvae.

One of the first symptoms of nematode feeding is leaf necrosis and small brown spots in the vicinity of leaf veins. If the invasion becomes stronger, soon these spots begin to spread radially over the entire surface, which in turn leads to significant deformation and dying of buds and leaves. What's more, nematodes significantly damage plant roots, which contributes to the easy penetration of dangerous pathogens, fungal diseases, bacteria and viruses, inhibition of growth and significant yield losses. It is worth noting that roots that have been attacked by nematodes are usually not suitable for consumption. 14ºC.

It is interesting that different species of nematodes prefer different plant species. Moreover, feeding symptoms may vary depending on the type of pest. Below are the most common species of nematodes and the plants on which they can occur.

Types of nematodes

The scathing washer - most often attacks onions and garlic. It can also appear in the cultivation of celery, parsley and broad beans. It is a migratory species, and the effect of its presence is significant twisting and deformation of the leaves and weakening of the roots. It feeds on the parenchyma of leaves, bulbs and roots. The attacked plant begins to rot quite quickly, and even dies completely.

Northern guzak - a species that feeds on most dicotyledonous plants, both in field and greenhouse crops. Plants most at risk of nodule infestation are: carrot, parsley, tomato and potato. In greenhouse crops, it attacks tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce. The pest feeds inside the roots, resulting in small growths on them, from which later lateral roots grow. The attacked plant is weakened and its growth and development is disturbed.

Harmful root root - attacks mainly orchard and ornamental plants. Their activity inside the young roots causes gradual dieback by producing harmful compounds.

Nematodes - parasites attacking the roots of plants, in which they disturb its physiological development by producing harmful enzymes. Numerous small roots appear around the roots, while the plant itself shows slower growth and reduced resistance to drought. A fairly common symptom is also wilting and yellowing of the leaves. The most common species of nematodes in Poland are beet nematodes, potato nematodes and aggressive nematodes.

Umbel beetle – feeds on parsley and celery roots. The presence of spielworm contributes to the formation of wounds through which fungal diseases penetrate. The defensive reaction of the plant is the increased production of a large number of lateral roots. Another symptom of pest infestation is the appearance of brown spots on the plant.

Methods of combating nematodes

Completely getting rid of nematodes from the garden is not an easy task, but it is worth taking action, because too much spread of the pest can cause huge losses in a short time.

One of the most effective and effective methods is the use of a proven nematicide. The recommended preparations are primarily P-Drakol and Biomass Sugar by Target. Both preparations have been approved for use in organic farming, and their use is most effective if we use a soil lance. These agents reduce the number of nematodes and, moreover, regenerate the root system and improve the overall condition of plants.

Other methods are also used to control nematodes, such as watering or spraying plants with garlic extract, planting in close proximity to naturally repellent plants such as marigolds or asparagus. It is also worth remembering about proper crop rotation and keeping all gardening tools clean, which can easily transfer the pest to healthy plants.

Types of peppers and tips on how to grow them

Paprika is a popular vegetable from the nightshade family, characterized by many culinary and health properties. Tasty, multi-colored pepper fruits are a real vitamin bomb, which is why they should be present in our menu as often as possible. Although it is quite a demanding plant, some types of pepper can be successfully grown in native climatic conditions. How to grow peppers in your own garden Which types of peppers will work in amateur cultivation?

Red pepper

Peppers are one of the most valuable sources of vitamin C and beta-carotene. Not everyone knows that the content of vitamin C in paprika is almost four times higher than in lemon! In addition, it is a wealth of mineral salts, thiamine and riboflavin. In addition to the aforementioned advantages affecting our health, it is also extremely tasty, aromatic and effective, making it an excellent addition to various types of dishes. Different colored types of pepper can be eaten raw, but not only, because roasted, canned or cooked has an equally large group of supporters. Ground is an excellent addition to meat dishes, while its spicier varieties perfectly enhance the taste of sauces and complement numerous spice mixes.

It is worth noting that thermally treated pepper retains almost all nutritional values.

What type of pepper to choose? Popular pepper varieties

Cultivation of peppers is not the easiest, and the plant itself is quite capricious and demanding. However, a few varieties will successfully work in our climate.

To make it easier to classify the different types of peppers, we will divide them into sweet and hot varieties. All of these are suitable for cultivation in Poland, in a tunnel or in the ground.

Sweet pepper varieties

green pepper

Paprika Nocturne Nocturne is a medium-early variety with sweet, triangular fruits taking on an interesting color from dark purple to dark cherry. It grows to a maximum height of 80 cm, so it is recommended to stake the shoots. No cutting required. It can be grown in the ground or tunnels.

Oleńka pepper A variety with sweet, juicy fruits and a spherical, flattened shape. It is a rich source of vitamin C, and its fruits change their color from dark green to dark red during ripening. Olenka is a variety that stands out for its large growth and strong branching ability, so it is worth pruning the side shoots that grow too much from time to time. It can be grown both in unheated tunnels and in the ground.

Telimena pepper Perfect for cultivation under foil. It is characterized by sweet, yellow fruits with juicy flesh. Telimena is a variety that produces large, trapezoidal specimens weighing up to 100 grams. The plant shows very strong growth, so pruning and the use of supports are necessary to protect the bush.

Ożarowska pepper Another variety that prefers cultivation in tunnels. If the air temperature is high enough, it can also be grown in the ground. It is distinguished by large red fruits, strong growth and compact habit. Requires pruning and staking.

Cyclone pepper It is one of the earlier varieties with conical, pointed and sharp-tasting dark red fruits. Its great advantage is its high resistance to changing climate, so it can be grown in the ground without any major obstacles.

Typhoon pepper A medium-hot variety with large, dark red fruits and a cylindrical shape. For field cultivation or under cover.

Cultivation and care of peppers

One of the most important features of pepper is its low resistance to frost, cold and wind, which is why it is recommended to grow it only from seedlings. You can prepare it yourself or buy good quality, ready-made seedlings in a proven garden store.

Peppers should be planted in the ground no earlier than mid-May, when the risk of sudden cooling is much lower. The plant prefers sheltered and warm places, preferably with a southern exposure. To provide it with even better thermal conditions, it is recommended to mulch the substrate with non-woven fabric, compost or straw, which will additionally maintain the proper level of moisture and protect the crop from weeds. The soil should be fertile, humus and well-cultivated, with a slightly acidic or neutral pH. Pepper shows a high demand for calcium and magnesium, hence the recommendation to use an appropriate mineral fertilizer with a properly balanced composition, containing the necessary amounts of nutrients.

During the period of flowering and fruit formation, the plant should be watered regularly with water at a temperature of min. 20ºC. Lack of moisture will be manifested by shedding flowers, and later also small and shapeless fruits. After acclimatization and adoption of the seedlings, pinch their tops, which will translate into better branching of the plant and more lush growth. In the case of tall varieties, you can not forget about staking, which will additionally protect our plants from damage.

Peppers are harvested after about 12-14 weeks of cultivation. In the case of spicy varieties, the given time is extended to approx. 18 weeks, but regardless of the type of pepper, it should be harvested before the first frost. Failure to meet the harvest date may result in freezing of the fruit, which will not be suitable for consumption. We always pick peppers one at a time and store them for no longer than 2 weeks at a temperature not exceeding 14ºC.

Home remedies for aphids. Natural remedies for aphids

Aphids are one of the most dangerous and at the same time the fastest-propagating plant pests. TO GET RID OF THE INTRUSION, YOU CAN USE READY CHEMICAL PREPARATIONS AVAILABLE IN GARDENING STORES OR USE HOUSEHOLD AND DEFINITELY MORE ECOLOGICAL METHODS. LEARN HOME REMEDIES FOR Aphids. CHECK WHICH OF THEM YOU CAN APPLY IN YOUR GARDEN.

Aphids - a dangerous pest of plants

Aphids are small pests from the bug family. Because they are not picky about their diet, you can meet them both on garden plants and those grown at home or on the balcony. Aphid feeding consists mainly in sucking sap from plants, which results in a significant weakening of the plant, distortion of shoots and a decrease in the quality of the crop. The presence of aphids is easy to recognize because of the characteristic honeydew, which is nothing more than a secretion left by the pest while feeding. Honeydew not only sticks to the surface of leaves or inflorescences, but is also an ideal environment for the development of dangerous fungal diseases.

As you can see, the appearance of aphids in the garden or on indoor plants results in significant damage, so you should start combating the voracious pest as soon as possible. If your goal is organic farming, it is worth trying natural, home methods that have been successfully used in plant care for decades.

Important! When deciding to control the pest with ready-made chemical preparations, the recommended waiting periods should be observed, which cannot be shortened under any circumstances. The period specified by the manufacturer MUST elapse between the application of the chemical agent and the moment of harvesting and eating the sprayed fruit or vegetables. It is conditioned by the type of chemical preparation used and the species of the plant and it lasts even several weeks!

Ways for ecological removal of aphids

Organic aphid sprays have two key advantages. Firstly, they help get rid of the pest without the use of chemical preparations. Secondly, they limit the harmful effects of chemicals both on our body (especially if we use them on plants whose crops are edible - vegetables, fruit trees and shrubs), and on beneficial insects, which are often natural enemies of aphids.

An effective method for aphids - beneficial insects

One of the allies in the fight against aphids is, for example, a ladybug, for which aphids are a real delicacy, so it is worth inviting her to your garden. How to do it?

In order to attract the insect, spray the plants with a solution of water and sugar. Another method is to tie pieces of yellow cloth or ribbon around the plants. Both the sweetness of the spray and the color of the material are effective lures for a ladybug, and its presence in the garden is a very effective way to deal with aphids.

Aphid repellent plants

This method will work both in garden cultivation and on balconies and terraces.

Well, aphids, in addition to natural enemies, such as ladybirds, also have natural repellers in the form of some plant species. In order to effectively reduce the number of aphids or completely eliminate the possibility of the appearance of the pest, it is worth using intercropping in the garden, which consists in planting between vegetables and in flower beds plant species that aphids do not like. Plants that repel aphids are primarily garlic and onion.

On the other hand, among herbs, mint and lavender have strong deterrent properties. Both species can be planted both in the garden and in pots on the balcony or terrace. The intense aroma emitted by these plants will effectively prevent the pest from settling in our crop.

Plant-based preparations

Preparations for aphids are prepared on the basis of plants that repel the pest. These are mainly decoctions and plant extracts that are used in the form of spraying. Importantly, they cannot be overdosed, so you do not have to watch the exact proportions and amount of spray.

Among the most recommended are:

Garlic extract. Finely chop a few cloves of garlic, then place in a jar and cover with water. For the extract to be sufficiently intense, wait a day, leaving the vessel in a warm place. After this time, the preparation is ready for use. It is enough to pour the resulting extract into the spray bottle, diluting it with water in a 1:1 ratio. You can store the rest in a cool place for up to 30 days.

Onion decoction. Pour about 10-12 liters of water over a kilogram of onions and cook for half an hour. Pour the cooled and strained decoction into a spray bottle and apply to plants attacked by aphids.

Nettle extract. To prepare a natural preparation, you need about 1 kg of nettle and 10 liters of water (we recommend standing rainwater). Pour the nettle with water, and after 24 hours you can start spraying the plants. An interesting fact is that nettle extract works not only on aphids, but also is an effective weapon in the fight against fungal diseases, e.g. gray mold.

A solution of vinegar and water for aphids

A mixture of vinegar and water is a very effective method of combating aphids, and, moreover, its preparation is extremely simple.

The solution should have the right concentration, and the recommended ratio is 1:10, i.e. 100 ml of vinegar and 1 liter of water. In order to increase the effectiveness of the preparation, you can add a small amount of dishwashing liquid to it. Spray the infected plants generously with the solution prepared in this way.

MILK AND GRAY SOAP FOR Aphids

For milk, mainly fresh cow's milk is recommended. The 1:1 mixture of milk and water is ready for use immediately after preparation.

To prepare a gray soap solution, dissolve approx. 20 g of soap in 1 liter of warm water (you can also use liquid soap available in garden stores). The preparation should be allowed to cool down.

In conclusion, home remedies for aphids are methods that have been used by gardeners for many decades. They are a cheaper and ecological alternative to chemical preparations, so before you reach for specialized plant protection products, test natural methods that may prove to be effective enough.

Home remedies for ants. Natural remedies for ants

ANTS IN A HOME OR GARDEN IS A SITUATION THAT REQUIRES QUICK INTERVENTION. FAST AND EFFICIENT! IN ADDITION TO THE VARIOUS TYPES OF CHEMICAL AGENTS RECOMMENDED IN THE CASE OF ANT INVASIONS, METHODS USING PRODUCTS FOUND IN MOST HOUSES ARE EQUALLY WORKING. HOW TO EFFECTIVELY REMOVE ANTS FROM YOUR PROPERTY? BELOW A FEW HOME REMEDY FOR A TROUBLE INSECT.

Harmful presence of ants

To begin with, it is worth emphasizing that ants are insects that can be useful in certain circumstances. Known for their diligence, they help carry seeds, clear the lawn of organic waste, fertilize the soil and improve its structure, and reduce the number of small invertebrates that nibble on plants.

The negative effect of ants is mainly to support the popular pest of plants - aphids, because ants willingly eat the sweet honey dew secreted by the aphid, the so-called. fall. In addition, they transfer aphids to other plants in the garden, scare off natural enemies of the pest, e.g. ladybugs, and as a result of digging underground corridors and feeding on plant roots, they cause irreversible damage. The presence of ants in the home contributes to food contamination. In extreme cases, erecting subsequent nests may result in damage to the building.

In order for the presence of ants not to turn into a destructive case for the house and garden, it is worth monitoring their number. If the situation gets out of control and insect activity moves inside the house or results in crop losses, immediate action should be taken to eliminate the problem.

In garden stores you will find a wide selection of insecticidal products in the form of aerosols, granules, liquid preparations and even food poison. The choice of the appropriate method depends on both the location of the problem and the size of the colony. However, before you reach for chemical agents, it is worth getting interested in natural methods, which are also cheaper and easy to use. Most of the necessary products are certainly in your kitchen.

Home remedies for ants

The best and most effective way to get rid of ants is to destroy the entire colony, and above all - the satellite nest. Otherwise, the insects will multiply quite quickly and the problem will return. If your goal is to remove ants efficiently, try to find their nest and then pour boiling water over it. You may be advised to add salt to the boiling water, but it is worth bearing in mind that such a solution will not only burn and destroy the insects, but also the vegetation around the nest, so we recommend caution.

The most frequently recommended home remedies for ants in the house and garden:

Garlic extract. Garlic is a plant known for its characteristic aroma, which is a strong deterrent to most pests, so it is worth taking advantage of its power. To prepare the extract, you need a few cloves of garlic, which is enough to crush and pour water. Put the mixture in a warm place for about 24 hours. After this time, pour it into the sprayer and thoroughly spray the places where ants gather.

Rice grains. A very popular method, which is also extremely effective. Sprinkle dry rice grains on the path where the ants roam or near the nest. During their journey, they will collect grains and transport them inside the nest. In a short time, the rice will start to ferment and become covered with mold, which is a very strong toxic substance for ants.

Baking soda or baking powder. Both methods are equally effective because they both use the same substance, i.e. baking soda, which is deadly to ants. If you do not have soda at home, use a powder that contains it in its composition. Sprinkle a large amount of powder in places where ants are present. In the event of an insect infestation at home, do not forget to sprinkle the product inside the food cabinets.

Lemon juice and vinegar. Another home remedy for ants is a mixture made of vinegar, water and lemon juice (you can also omit the vinegar and add more juice). Prepare a 1:1 solution of vinegar and water, optionally add the juice of one lemon. Spray the pest site abundantly with the ready-to-use mixture. Since the irritating aroma is quite fleeting, it is worth repeating the action even several times a day until the intruder is eliminated.

Orange peel. A simple way to outsmart the ants is to spread finely chopped or grated orange peel around the nest and along the path they travel on. Well, this part of the fruit contains ingredients that are toxic to ants, so after moving small particles inside the nest, these substances will effectively poison the entire anthill.

Cinnamon. This is a method whose main purpose is to limit the movement of ants. Sprinkle a generous amount of cinnamon on insect trails or near plants that ants like to nibble on. Cinnamon particles, which additionally give off an intense aroma, will effectively stop insects from wandering and occupying more and more space. In turn, placed among vegetables, it will limit the possibility of penetrating into the ground and snacking on the underground parts of plants.

Another way, which will work mainly in the garden, is to plant plants whose aroma is irritating to ants. Especially disliked by the pest are thyme, peppermint, lavender, garlic, parsley and wormwood. You can also set up small containers with honey in the garden, which will certainly attract the insect, and which will prove to be an effective trap.

If all the above methods turn out to be ineffective or reduce the number of ants only to a small extent, it will be necessary to reach for specialized chemical preparations that will facilitate the fight against the uninvited guest: see PREPARATIONS FOR ANTS

What to fertilize thujas? When to fertilize thuja

TUI FERTILIZATION IS A KEY CARE TREATMENT THAT PROVIDES THE PLANT WITH NECESSARY NUTRIENTS. SKIPPING THIS STEP WILL IN A SHORT TIME WILL CONTRIBUTE TO THE BROWNING OR YELLOWING OF THE SPRINGS AND EVEN THEIR FALLING. HOW TO FERTILIZER THUJA TO PREVENT WEAKNESS OF THE PLANT? LEARN ABOUT THE BASIC RULES AND DATES OF TUI FERTILIZATION.

This is very popular thuja, which is most often planted along the property fence. Often they are also the only barrier separating the plot from the neighboring area. However, thujas will prove themselves not only as a traditional hedge - due to their relatively low requirements and ease of care and formation, they are often used in gardens as a single decoration. The biggest advantage of thuja, apart from the ease of cultivation, are its lush and dense shoots and intense color, thanks to which it is a graceful and elegant decoration of the property. What's more, it is a year-round species, so even in winter you will be greeted in the garden with fresh and calming green bushes.

However, the fact that thuja is an all-year-round species requires maintaining the proper order and sequence of care work, mainly fertilization. Importantly, fertilizers should be adapted to the season and the natural development and needs of the plant. In the article you will find a complete guide on the proper fertilization of thuja. We will also tell you what fertilizers to choose and how to dose them.

When to fertilize thujas?

In general, thuja fertilization is conditioned by the soil's abundance of nutrients. If your plot is located in a sandy area, and the ground is light and barren, the requirements of the bushes will be much higher, and the doses of fertilizer should be higher and more frequent. In contrast to humus and fertile soils, which usually contain an incomparably greater amount of nutrients, therefore fertilization can be moderate.

AS A PRINCIPLE, THERE ARE THREE MAIN DATES FOR TUI FERTILIZATION:

spring - with the beginning of the growing season, at the turn of April and May

summer - fertilization is carried out in June

autumn - at the turn of September and October.

So, fertilization of shrubs should be carried out 2 or 3 times a year, and the division into terms is intended to help determine the type of fertilizer needed. This is a key tip, because the composition of the agent used significantly affects the condition and proper development of the plant, and also protects the bushes against winter frosts.>

What to fertilize thujas?

As mentioned above, the type of fertilizer and its composition are conditioned by the season.

For spring and summer fertilization, we recommend preparations in which nitrogen is the main ingredient. In addition to nitrogen, spring and summer fertilizers should contain a large amount of macro- and microelements in an amount corresponding to the needs of the shrub. Among the elements that play a significant role in the development of the plant, we distinguish magnesium, which prevents the yellowing and browning of shoots and the dying of twigs.

It should be emphasized that nitrogen fertilizers should be used only in spring and summer, and the last fertilization with a preparation containing this element cannot be done later than in July. The main reason is the effect of nitrogen, which stimulates plants to grow, which, given the approaching winter, could contribute to insufficient lignification of young shoots and, consequently, to freezing of the plant.

The last, autumn fertilization should be made with a preparation with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. These elements affect the strengthening of the bush before the onset of winter and strengthens their frost resistance.

What fertilizers to choose for here?

In garden shops you will find a wide range of fertilizers that will be used when fertilizing shrubs. Almost every manufacturer has in its assortment preparations that you can successfully use for thuja care.

You can choose from multi-ingredient mineral fertilizers, which, in addition to the most important nutrients, such as phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, contain properly balanced proportions of magnesium, iron and other macro- and microelements. Properly selected ingredients affect the color and overall condition of the bushes.

Experienced gardeners recommend applying an organic fertilizer, such as compost or manure, at least once a season. We show you how to make manure in your garden. Organic fertilizers provide plants with many valuable elements, humus and valuable microorganisms, and their greatest advantage is the lack of over-fertilization. Organic fertilization is often overlooked, although, as you can see, it has a lot of significant positives that translate into improving the condition of plants and the substrate.

If you are unsure which type of fertilizer to choose, we recommend consulting a qualified garden store employee who will advise on available alternatives. A good solution is also to use fertilizers intended specifically for thujas and conifers, thanks to which the risk of making a mistake will be much lower.

Dosage of fertilizers for thujas

Mineral fertilizers are available as granules, in the form of liquid fertilizers, and even as a long-acting agent that releases nutrients into the soil for up to 3 months. Long-acting fertilizers are more expensive than traditional ones, but thanks to their prolonged action, one fertilization per season is enough.

Fertilizers in the form of granules should be scattered around the trunk of the bush, gently mixed with the ground, and then watered abundantly. Fertilizers in liquid form should be diluted in water before use. Remember to never water the bushes with concentrated fertilizer straight from the bottle, because such a strong concentration can burn the roots and lead to the death of the plant. We suggest you read our article on watering vegetables in the garden in which we discover various secrets of watering.

The doses of individual preparations should be in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Do not increase the recommended proportions on your own. It is worth emphasizing that over-fertilization of thuja with mineral fertilizer is much more dangerous for the plant than its deficiency and may result in damage to the bush.

To increase the assimilation of nutrients contained in the substrate, we recommend the use of a mycorrhizal vaccine that supports the development of thujas and makes them resistant to adverse environmental conditions.

Nettle manure - how to make and what to use

Nettle is considered a weed by most people, but experienced gardeners know that it is an extremely useful plant on a farm or garden, and nettle slurry is an effective and natural preparation for plant protection. How to prepare and what to use nettle manure for? Below are some helpful tips.

Preparing nettle manure is not difficult, so it will certainly not cause you a problem. Before starting work, it is worth preparing all the necessary products and items, although, in fact, there are really few of them.

How to make nettle manure?

First, some valuable information.

Young leaves of the herb, before flowering, are best for making slurry.

The solution must be prepared in a plastic or glass vessel (preferably a large bucket or barrel) so that the liquid manure has space for fermentation and that it can be stirred freely. It is absolutely inadvisable to set liquid manure in metal and concrete vessels.

You must prepare for the presence of an unpleasant odor ... in fact, fermenting manure smells very bad, so it is best to place the pot in a sheltered and warm place, away from home.

The liquid manure container must not be covered tightly! The reason is, of course, the ongoing fermentation process, which requires access to oxygen. In order to protect the liquid from uninvited insects, we recommend covering the container with gauze or a net.

The slurry should be stirred daily, and it is best to wear rubber gloves when mixing, which will minimize the risk of 'smell' transferring to the skin.

Slurry acquires full properties after about 2 weeks (after the foam disappears from the surface and changes its color to brown-green), but you can safely store it for up to a month.

To prepare 10 liters of liquid manure, you need about 1 kg of nettle leaves. Put the leaves cut into smaller pieces at the bottom of the dish, and then pour water. The best would be rainwater, although traditional tap water or deep water intake will work just as well. Remember to mix the fermenting slurry systematically every day.

Attention! The prepared solution should be diluted with water before use! For watering plants, the proportion of the mixture is 1:10 (one portion of slurry for 10 portions of water), and for spraying in the proportion of 1:20.

What to use nettle manure for?

Nettle manure contains a wealth of valuable elements that support the development of plants. These include, among others, nitrogen and potassium, but also magnesium, calcium, iron, silicon, organic acids and mineral salts. The mixture is primarily a natural fertilizer that you can use without fear of over-fertilizing plants, although in some cases we recommend caution.

Nettle manure can be used to water garden plants, vegetables, fruit trees and shrubs, and even conifers. Almost all plant species tolerate natural nettle fertilizer very well, and the recommended frequency is one watering every two weeks. The action of a natural fertilizer prepared from nettle is primarily: healing plants, improving growth as well as improving and accelerating the process of producing chlorophyll, thanks to which plants are better and more intensely colored. Nettle manure also attracts earthworms, which with their presence improve soil porosity and fertilize the substrate.

It is worth remembering that nettle slurry is a fertilizer that provides plants with increased amounts of nitrogen, so it should not be used for species sensitive to its excess, root vegetables and those with a relatively short growing season. As a result of fertilizing these plants, nitrates, i.e. nitric acid derivatives, may accumulate in them, which in excessive amounts are dangerous to health.

Plants that should not be watered with nettle manure are: azaleas, heathers, rhododendrons, peas, beans, garlic and onions.

In addition to watering in the form of fertilizer, nettle slurry will also be used as a spray against popular plant pests and fungal diseases. The solution helps fight spider mites, cup mites, aphids, gray mold and powdery mildew, among others.

The best and most visible effects are achieved by spraying the plants in the initial stage of the disease or when the pests have not multiplied too much. In the very advanced stages of the pathogen, it will be necessary to reach for specialized chemical preparations that will protect the plants from more serious damage.

Don't throw the leaves out of the manure! The leaves at the bottom of the vessel can be used for composting plants.

You will find ready-made nettle manure in garden stores, but before buying, make sure that the composition of the preparation is as close to natural as possible, i.e. it does not have any admixtures of other substances. Only such a preparation will be able to compete with self-prepared nettle manure, and what's more - you will avoid the need to mix the smelly substance.

How to prune thujas?

Thujas are popular thujas that fulfill various functions in gardens and on properties. Starting from traditional green hedges, to single decorative specimens, or a background for flower beds and rockeries. One of the key maintenance treatments is regular pruning. How to prune thujas and when to do it?

The proper schedule and method of pruning thuja depends on the function that the shrub fulfills in the garden, but also on the specific variety. What's more, we distinguish several types of cuts, so before you take a pruning shears or other tool in your hands, read our recommendations. It may turn out that in the case of shrubs in your garden, pruning is not necessary, you plan to do it at the wrong time or in the wrong way.

How to prune thujas?

Pruning thujas is not a complicated procedure, mainly due to the shoots that are not very woody, more delicate than those of traditional trees. With a little willingness and knowledge, you are able to do it yourself. Of course, you can use the help of an experienced gardener who will choose the way of cutting, but we believe that you will be able to handle our tips without much problem.

THE MAIN CRITERION WHEN IT COMES TO THE WAY OF TRIMING, IS THE VARIETY AND THE FUNCTION IN THE GARDEN.

The generally applied rule says that species planted in the form of hedges should be trimmed systematically, even 2-3 times a season. The exception are thuja varieties such as Szmaragd or Columna, which are planted mainly as unformed hedges and do not require so frequent pruning. On the other hand, slow-growing specimens and specimens planted as independent specimens are not so demanding and in this case a basic sanitary pruning, or a slight correction of the shape, is sufficient.

What is the easiest way to divide the types of thuja cutting?

sanitary - removal of dried, diseased or broken shoots

corrective – 'reminiscent' pruning, which restores the plant to its assumed shape

formative - the main goal is to form the bush

translucent - thinning of the crown increasing access to the light of the inner parts of the bush

The main rules of pruning thuja:

during spring and summer pruning, shorten the shoots by about 1/3 or 1/2 of their length and remove all dead, damaged or infected twigs

the last pruning consists in slightly shortening the shoots by about 2 cm, thanks to which the plant will spread better and thicken

only trim shrubs that have reached a minimum height of 1.5 meters (except dwarf varieties, of course)

after cutting, we recommend smearing the wounds with an ointment or other fungicidal preparation

avoid pruning shrubs during rain, frost, very high temperatures and strong sunlight

pruning tools (shears, manual, petrol or electric shears) should be sharp and disinfected. This will avoid tearing delicate twigs and transferring harmful pathogens to other parts of the plant

when trimming, remember about the proper outer clothing and protective gloves.

What else is worth knowing about thuja pruning?

the first pruning of shrubs can be made only in spring, in the year following planting. Too early cutting can contribute to the weakening of the plant, which needs a lot of energy to take root and take on a new position

the last pruning of the season should not be made later than at the turn of August and September. If you miss the right moment, it's better to skip trimming altogether. Remember that this activity stimulates the plant to grow, but also causes micro-injuries and wounds, which need a certain time to heal.

When to prune thujas?

As we mentioned above, the frequency of pruning depends on the intended use and variety of a particular shrub. What's more, different rules apply to specimens with a columnar habit, and other dwarf varieties intended for low hedges or as an independent decorative element.

To help sort things out a bit, here are some details on when to prune thujas:

thujas should be pruned from March/April to the end of August

plan the first spring pruning after the winter frosts are over, in the bud swelling phase, but before the proper growing season

new specimens should be pruned only in the spring, in the year following planting

the second, summer pruning of shrubs is best done around June, when young shoots reach several centimeters

the third cut (August/beginning of September) is the last one before the winter season, because the twigs stimulated to grow must become woody before the temperatures drop below zero.

TO SUMMARY, THUJA IS A VIBE THAT REQUIRES REGULAR TRIM.

All of the above tips are basic knowledge about pruning shrubs. Some varieties will be content with a cosmetic pruning once a year, while others grow best when trimmed 2-3 times during the growing season. It is worth emphasizing that the cutting itself should depend not only on the variety or use of the shrub, but also on your preferences. Pruning thuja gives a huge range of possibilities, and the plant itself can be easily shaped and managed in accordance with the expected effect. The best solution is therefore to observe the plant and wisely plan the schedule of care work.